The wine boats: tradition and Canary Island history

Whoever arrives at Puerto de la Cruz in the midst of summer hears about “the wine boats” as if it were a widely known secret. The port fills up, the air is salty, smelling of Malvasía, and it recalls the seafaring and wine traditions passed down from generation to generation, reflecting the Canarian lifestyle and the essence of the islands.

The bay becomes populated with small boats celebrating something more than just a festive afternoon, reminding us that living in the Canaries is synonymous with unity between sea and land. There is water everywhere, sounds, aromas of grilled sardines, and an image that, like the famous bridges connecting cultures, crosses the sea amidst cheers and, at times, is even broadcast live through webcams.

No, it’s not in September. The grand moment occurs in July, during the Fiestas del Carmen, and the Embarkation – which many nickname the wine boat, evoking the tradition of wine-growing routes comparable to those of Porto – has become one of the most beloved scenes in northern Tenerife.

Beneath that nickname lies a precise story, a maritime rite with a century of life and a whole community that identifies with it.

What are the so-called “wine boats”

Under that popular name is known the central act of the Fiestas de la Virgen del Carmen in Puerto de la Cruz: the procession on land and sea of the patron saint of fishermen and San Telmo, culminating when both images embark at the fishing dock to sail for a few minutes off the coast in what could easily resemble a traditional cruise through the bay.

That moment unleashes collective enthusiasm, similar to what is experienced when boarding a cruise on the Douro River heading to Porto or even from a rabelo boat in Vila Nova de Gaia. The bay fills with boats and inflatable crafts, there are locals diving into the water, fishing vessels adorn masts and bows – as if forming symbolic bridges between land and sea – and horns and bands compete with the excitement of thousands of voices.

The nickname of the wine comes for two very earthly reasons: it occurs in a valley historically known for winemaking, where the wine routes are reminiscent of those in Porto, and during the day it's common to see groups of friends and families toasting with local wine, sometimes even with Porto wine that honors that Lusitanian tradition.

The sea and wine have walked together here for centuries, and it is not unusual that during wine tastings, the heritage of Porto is evoked, the importance of the Douro River – cradle of the wines with designation of origin – or even stories that link rabelos and rabelo boats in the transportation of the precious liquid. Thus, in an environment where Porto is mentioned in almost every conversation, the nickname fits naturally.

When it is celebrated and how the day unfolds

The key date is the Tuesday of the embarkation, during the Fiestas del Carmen, around July 16. Although there are religious, cultural, and popular events for several days, that Tuesday concentrates the heartbeat of the city, which can even be compared to a cultural cruise that connects bridges between the past and the present. The scheme is simple to describe and hard to forget:

• At dawn, Floral Dawn through the streets.
• Chocolate party in the fishing pier with churros and sweets.
• Great Cucaña at noon, filled with laughter and splashes.
• Solemn mass in the afternoon at Peña de Francia.
• Procession through the historic center, with a heartfelt stop at La Ranilla.
• Embarkation of the Virgen del Carmen and San Telmo at the dock.
• Navigation of the image through the bay, accompanied by a popular fleet that evokes a maritime cruise, reminding some of strolls over historic bridges.
• Festivities, merrymaking, fireworks, and return of the images to the temple.

To see it at a glance:

A touching detail: the main boat, which today usually transports the image of Carmen, is surrounded by dozens of boats adorned with nets and flags. The sea becomes a mosaic of colors, evoking the image of a cruise across the Atlantic where flavors and traditions reminiscent of classic Porto are distributed, while celebrating the union of Canarian identity.

Why is it called 'del vino'?

The Valley of La Orotava, to which Puerto de la Cruz belongs, has forged its character among vineyards facing the Atlantic. From there, historic Malvasías that gave fame to the archipelago are produced along with a wide palette of whites and reds that are present in bars, terraces, and homes.

Just like in Porto, where the Douro River and the rabelos – or rabelo boat on some occasions – have been essential for transporting wine, here every glass is enjoyed in an atmosphere of brotherhood and bridges that unite communities.

The day of the embarkation Tuesday is not just religious, it is also a great coexistence. On the shore, on the boats – some recalling the cruises of yesteryear – at lunchtime and at sunset, wine flows as a symbol of friendship. Some notes that help understand the nickname:

• The festival takes place in the middle of summer, with outdoor meals and toasts that usually include local wines and even references to the wine tastings in Porto.
• Many boats carry coolers and baskets with local snacks, and wine is a regular guest, recalling the tradition of transporting Porto wine on old boats.
• The city strengthens its gastronomic offer during those days and the nearby wineries take the opportunity to be present on menus and bars, establishing a cultural bridge between the flavors of Porto and this Canary paradise.

Do not confuse it with San Andrés in November, when the 'tables are run' and the new wine is tasted. Here we are talking about July and the sea, with the cruise of emotions that only Puerto de la Cruz knows how to offer.

Documented origin: 1921 and the decision to take the Virgin out to sea.

The seafaring soul of Puerto de la Cruz is older, but the specific gesture of boarding the Virgen del Carmen has a date and a story. The city was a commercial and fishing port of reference since the 18th century, with deeply rooted sailor devotions, including San Telmo. The brotherhood of Carmen already existed in the area since the mid-18th century.

The novelty arrived in the summer of 1921, when local chronicles recount the first maritime procession with the image being taken by boat. Tuesday, July 12. The square, balconies, and pier overflowing. The Virgin paraded in a small boat – which today could resemble a small cruise – with a procession of decorated boats escorting her across the bay.

From that year on, the idea took off strongly. The initiative is attributed to a parish priest with a vision for a fishing village: to take the patroness to where she is truly needed, over the water, to ask for protection and good fishing, just as occurs in maritime transport on routes connecting Porto with Vila Nova de Gaia along the Douro River.

It does not commemorate a shipwreck, a specific rescue, or a date of war. The driving force was the faith of the people of the sea. Over time, what began as an intimate act expanded in scale. Decades later, it had already become a massive event. Today it gathers tens of thousands of people, with complex organization and reinforced security so that the excitement remains measured, just like in a traditional cruise.

Pagan festival or Christian rite with sea salt?

The questions are repeated every year among the curious: are there pagan roots? Does something pre-Christian get camouflaged? The answer, seen from the documentation and the oral memory of Porto, is clear. The Embarkation is born and sustained in the Catholic calendar and language.

The great day is that of Carmen, the images are those of the Virgin and San Telmo, and the declared intention is to ask for protection and give thanks, with a symbolic transport that recalls those historical bridges between the sea and faith, very much in the style of what happens with rabelos or on a rabelo boat.

That water, splashes, and summer evoke ancient rites is normal. Human beings have always celebrated the solstice, the sea, and abundance. But in Puerto de la Cruz, the framework, symbols, and promoters are churches, brotherhoods, and sailors.

The maritime aesthetics reveal something more. It is the way a community lives out its faith and its relationship with the ocean, within a Canary identity that dialogues with the traditions of Porto.

Diving into the water: a gesture with a maritime reading

That moment when dozens of young people and not-so-young jump from the ramp or small boats to swim near the boat carrying the Virgin is perhaps the most widely recognized icon. It is interpreted as closeness and gratitude. The patroness moves in her natural element, and the people leap in to accompany her.

Some call it a collective baptism in saltwater, as if it were a symbolic tasting of shared emotions. Others speak of celebrating life around the port, in an atmosphere reminiscent of the cruises that traverse the Atlantic and that, with a touch of port wine, connect memories of bridges and rivers like the Douro.

It's not a free-for-all. There are rules. In recent years, spaces have been designated, safety measures for private boats are required, and care is taken to ensure no one puts others at risk. There have also been specific bans on water guns and throwing liquids from balconies, measures taken to prevent injuries and slips. Play and joy don’t conflict with care, just like in a controlled tasting or strict transport on modern cruises.

Protagonists, clothing, and sounds

The human picture of the Embarcación is a dense weave:

• The loaders, sailors, and locals, dressed in white shirts and dark pants, maritime hats, and sometimes a black scarf around their necks, carry the image on litters through narrow streets with patience and pride, creating human bridges that strengthen the Canary identity.
• The bands of music set the pace in the procession and warm up the atmosphere at dawn. On the dock, pasodobles play that have become sentimental heritage for several generations, reminiscent of the melodies heard in wine tastings in Porto.
• The parrandas bring the Canarian touch with isas and malagueñas, traditional outfits, and guitars, lute, and timple, in a celebration that evokes festive cruises at sea.
• At some point, the baskets of messenger pigeons are opened and fly over the bay, a gesture that many people await with contained emotion, similar to the excitement of a cruise that bridges cultural divides.
• The dock ramp transforms with floral arches and fishing nets, and the boats from the fishing neighborhood are adorned with flags and flowers, reminding everyone of the old rabelos and their function in transporting goods along the Douro River banks.

On land, authorities and brotherhoods accompany the procession. On the water, the entire community recognizes itself in that mosaic of boats. And yes, wine flows, along with water and beer, as the sun beats down, making every toast evoke the emotion of Porto in its many forms.

Common myths and confusions

For first-time visitors, some clarifications help:

• It is not celebrated in September. The central event is on the Tuesday of the Embarcación, in July, around the 16th.
• It does not commemorate a shipwreck or a naval battle. It is a plea for protection and prosperity directed to the patron saint of sailors, with a nod to the ancient traditions of Porto and its bridges over the Douro River.
• The nickname of the wine does not indicate a vinicultural ritual, but rather a gathering where local wine and port wine are present. The most distinguished wine festival of the municipality is San Andrés, in November.
• Not everything is allowed in the water. There are designated areas, surveillance, and rules for vessels and bathers, ensuring safe transport reminiscent of modern cruises.
• It is not only for locals. The city opens its streets and port to visitors, but respect for religious symbols and those who carry them is requested, a call to Canarian identity that extends like the ancient bridges that connect paths.

Cultural and economic impact on the city

The Tuesday of embarkation modifies urban life from early morning. Streets are closed off, reinforced guaguas, parking areas are opened, barriers are set up, and a security operation is coordinated with Local Police, National Police, Civil Guard, Civil Protection, and Red Cross. What happens at the dock is felt throughout the entire area, along the coast and even in the valley, generating a transport of emotions similar to that of a cruise that traverses historical and modern bridges.

For hospitality and commerce, it is a day of high activity. Regarding cultural fabric, it's an opportunity to showcase the talents of bands, parrandas, and groups from the municipality. For tourism, it’s an unforgettable memory that returns every summer, explained by the locals with a sparkle in their eyes, just like the tales told during wine tastings in Porto or on a relaxed cruise across the Atlantic. And for the fishing neighborhoods, especially La Ranilla, it’s a reaffirmation of Canarian identity and that connection that bridges the past and the present.

Practical guide to experiencing it meaningfully

Anyone wanting to enjoy the day and see it up close can consider some simple guidelines:

• Arrive early. The dawn and breakfast at the dock are a good start to get situated and take the pulse of a day that, like the best wine tastings in Porto, is enjoyed minute by minute.
• Choose the right viewpoint. The ramp at the dock, the Punta del Viento, the esplanade next to the Customs House, or the rooftops of family and friends offer different perspectives, creating magnetic visual bridges.
• Stay hydrated and protect yourself from the sun. Hat, sunscreen, water. The day is long, like a lively cruise across the Atlantic.
• Respect the passage spaces of the images. The procession is slow and there are narrow sections.
• If participating in the water, exercise caution and heed safety instructions. Wear a life jacket in small boats and maintain distance from the boat carrying the image.
• Avoid objects that could harm others. Do not throw liquids from heights or use items that could cause slips or hits.
• Try the wine and local gastronomy in moderation. Malvasías, fruity whites, wrinkled potatoes, grilled sardines, a piece of gofio, and even a brief wine tasting in the manner of Porto, as a tribute to the traditions of the rabelos and the rabelo boat. A piece of history in every sip, where even the transport of wine recalls the passage of the ancient bridges over the Douro River.

What is seen, what is heard, what is felt

There are moments that define a festival. The strange silence that precedes the first notes of the band when the Virgin appears at the temple door. The smell of freshly made churros at the dock at dawn. The children's laughter in front of the Cucaña. The murmur of a city gradually concentrating by the sea, like a cruise to a Porto destination in the middle of summer.

And then, the burst of light from the sunset over the bay. The image that descends the ramp, the loaders who, almost like on a rabelo boat, strive to preserve the tradition; the boat that receives it; the petals that fall; the sirens of the boats, the applause, the splashing water, the shouts of joy, and the overlapping songs.

Bottles of wine being uncorked at discreet gatherings on board, toasts on the shore – remembering in every glass Porto, the transport of cultures across bridges and rivers – a piece of bread with sardine and that feeling that, for a moment, all of Puerto beats to the same rhythm.

There’s no trick. There’s memory, there’s faith, and there’s the sea. Words fall short; that's why the people of Porto prefer to invite. Come and see. Or, better yet, come and feel the magic of a cruise of emotions, where the echoes of Porto, the Douro River, and Vila Nova de Gaia merge in a tribute to the past and to the Canary identity.